sitka spruce

Climbing the Largest Spruce Tree in the Carmanah Valley

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I'm excited to share that we have located, climbed, and measured the largest spruce tree in the Carmanah Valley!

The record-sized tree — whose mammoth trunk forks into multiple stems reminiscent of the multi-headed hydra of Greek mythology — grows protected within the Carmanah-Walbran Provincial Park in Ditidaht territory on Vancouver Island.

The tree was identified by myself and Ian Thomas of Ancient Forest Alliance while exploring the Carmanah Valley in the spring of 2022 and climbed later in the fall with the help of professional arborists with Bartlett Tree Experts. The images are being released for the first time today to celebrate Earth Week.

The monumental spruce measures 12.9 ft (3.89 m) wide near its base, 233 ft (71 m) tall, and has an average crown spread of 72 ft (22 m). This makes it the largest tree in the Carmanah Valley overall (despite the famed Carmanah Giant being taller) and the fourth-largest spruce tree on record in BC, according to the BC Big Tree Registry.

This giant is the most spectacular Sitka spruce tree we’ve come across in our decades-long search for big trees in BC. As huge as they seem from the ground, we often only see a third of a giant tree, which can extend hundreds of more feet into the air. Climbing into the canopy of this ancient tree was like entering a lost world. Its limbs were adorned with moss & ferns, and its massive trunk kept dividing into what appeared to be a grove of trees amongst itself. Eventually, we were rewarded with a stunning view over the Carmanah Valley, more than 20 stories in the air!

This climbing project was part of my work as a National Geographic Explorer with support from the Trebek Initiative. We extend our greatest thanks to the team at Bartlett Tree Experts as well for donating their skills and expertise to make this climb possible.

All climbing and filming done with permission from local governments. Low-impact techniques ensured the tree was protected.

See the Ancient Forest Alliance press release for the full story, and be sure to send an instant message calling for the protection of old-growth forests in BC.

See the incredible video of the climb below!

Canada's Largest Spruce Tree, the San Joseph Spruce - Vancouver Island, BC.

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Canada’s largest spruce tree stretches towards the night sky as a full moon rises over northern Vancouver Island. Located near the San Josef River outside of Holberg in Quatsino territory, the San Joseph Spruce, aka ‘San Jo’s Smiley’, measures 255 ft (77.8 m) tall and 14.3 ft (4.36 m) in diameter. Standing at the base of the tree is akin to being a bug beside the foot of a giant elephant (Ian pictured here is 6’4 for scale). Pretty mind-blowing to say the least.

Please take a moment to reflect on the significance of our forest friends and send an instant message calling for their protection. Fine art prints available here.

[o] Canon 5D MKIV, 15mm fisheye, 30-second exposure, headlamp + moonlight, and a little bit of magic.

Nahwitti Lake Old-Growth Trail

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On the shores of Nahwitti Lake between the towns of Holberg and Port Hardy in Tlatlasikwala & Quatsino Territory stands one of the loveliest little old-growth trails on Vancouver Island. This gentle path winds through a lush old-growth forest and features massive Sitka spruce trees that soar majestically from enchanting fields of ferns before ending at the shores of the lake. In a landscape that’s been almost entirely cleared of its ancient giants, it provides a stunning glimpse into the grand forests that once grew here.

This big tree trail could also be a major ecotourism draw - similar to Avatar Grove in Port Renfrew - and should be added to the list of must-see north island wilderness destinations such as San Josef Bay and the North Coast Trail.

To visit the trees, find the recreation site trailhead in a small parking area just off Holberg Rd on the east end of Nahwitti Lake (50.697842, -127.812370). Be sure to support local business community as well, helping them benefit from big tree tourism 🌲

A gigantic, old-growth Sitka spruce tree along the Nahwitti Lake trail near Port Alberni & Holberg, BC.

Carmanah Valley: New Giant Spruce Tree Identified

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UPDATE - 2024: We’ve since climbed and documented this tree with professional climbers! See the photos and story and watch the incredible video too!

At 12.5ft wide, over 250ft tall, and with a crown that is a world unto itself, this Sitka spruce may now be the largest known tree in the Carmanah Valley.

We came across it last weekend when myself and some friends were exploring in the park. After a long day of bushwhacking, daylight fading, and snow beginning to fall, its giant, multi-forked canopy caught our eye from a distance. We bumped into another group of big tree seekers before making our way over to this Goliath of the woods, shouting with excitement as we approached it.

Certain trees just enter into a different category of big and this would be one of them. It can be hard to comprehend their incredible age and immense size. To be in their presence is both humbling and inspiring, and fills you with stoke!!

The Carmanah Valley is special place. Protected in the 1990’s after hard fought conservation battles, it is home to some of, if not the the very best, old-growth Sitka spruce stands in the country. It’s also famous for having the tallest tree known in Canada, the Carmanah Giant, which stands 315ft or 95m tall.

With its sweeping valley bottoms and rolling slopes all still intact, it leaves you wondering what else could be out there. For now, this appears to be the biggest, but more could surely be in store. Only time and further exploration will tell!

The Easter egg hunt continues…

The Hunt for a Big Tree

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Hunting for big trees is, in my opinion, one of the very greatest adventures a person can embark on. It almost always involves a lot of bushwhacking through the dense and rugged forests found on BC’s coast (the fun part!) but thanks to recent improvements in satellite imagery, it’s sometimes possible to hone in on a specific tree even before you leave your house. When I first noticed the large crown and dark shadow looming above the forests near Cheewhat Lake in the screenshot below, I couldn’t get it out of my head. Was it a giant cedar? Something else? I didn’t know but It sure looked impressive! Months went by until finally I had a free day to make the 4 hour drive out there. A quick scope from the road revealed that it was not in fact a giant redcedar but a Sitka spruce! It was tall with a wide canopy and a decent size trunk. The next step was to push through the dense second-growth bordering the road to physically reach the base of the tree. By my best guess, it looked to be about 7 feet wide but was too difficult to measure since the back of the tree flared over a steep hillside. Though it didn’t turn out to be a record breaker, it was impressive none-the-less! And what it lead me to later that day (the giant cedars in the previous post) was well worth all the effort :)